![]() It is also much safer for the boat to want to go bow-to-wind if you let go of the helm. You always want a little weather helm, as keeping the bow from coming up creates lift to windward. If your boat has an adjustable backstay, trimming the backstay on also flattens both main and jib.Īll these sail controls will affect weather helm, which is the tendency of the boat to want to round up into the wind when it is overpowered. Tightening the halyard, cunningham, outhaul, or the sheet and/or moving the traveler to leeward or headsail fairleads aft can all flatten and depower the sails. A few principles apply to this line of thinking:Ī flatter sail has less power than one with more shape. Below, we will review some of the different kinds of reefing and how to make them work for you, your crew, and your boat during a particularly windy winter sail.īefore you get to tucking a reef in, remember that the first way to depower a sail is with the sail controls and weather helm can guide you in this process. However, when and how to reef leaves lots of room for interpretation. Conventional wisdom offers the general rule: “If you are wondering if you should reef, you should already have a reef in.” Reefing - the act of reducing the effective sail area to reduce the force the wind can apply to the boat - is one way to address this. ![]() If the force of the wind on the sails causes the boat to heel more than that, it not only makes it harder to control and puts unnecessary strain on the rigging and the crew, but it is almost always a slower way to sail. Boats are designed to sail best at a particular angle of heel - depending on the boat, somewhere between 10° and 20°. This is especially crucial at this time of year. Being able to reduce sail to maintain better control of the boat is, of course, always important. Winter winds are here! It’s something to celebrate, but also something that requires special readiness. Also, the earlier versions of the DF 65 did not have hooks - so I imagine the rules were written to allow older model yachts to remain class legal.From the January 2021 issue of 48° North. So, as far as I can see, it's perfectly legal to use cord instead of hooks on the sail clews. Rule F7.5 deals with the winch line clip. Instructions Manual, but the Mainsail Luff Rings may be substituted with cord ties. The Mainsail shall be attached to the mast and boom as shown in the Licensed Builder’s Rigging The Jib Clew Hooks may be substituted with cord. Is to allow the Jib Boom Lifting Cord to clear the mast when tacking in light winds. ![]() The ring shall be a maximum length of 30mm from the Backstay Crane eye. On the A+ Rig, the Forestay, Jib Cunningham and Jib Boom Lifting Cord Shall be attached toĮither the front eye in the A+ Backstay Crane, or attached to a metal ring tied to the front eye in theīackstay Crane. The Licensed Builder’s Rigging Instructions Manual and shall comprise any system using any, orĪll, of the following cord, a bowsie and a ring. The Jib Boom Lifting Cord (rear end of Jib Boom) shall be fixed to the Forestay Fitting as shown in The Jib Tack (lower front corner) shall be attached by the metal hook supplied by the Licensedīuilder, or tied directly to the eye in the Jib Boom front end fitting or directly to the Counterweight Secured around Deck Eye 4 (which may be converted into a hook on pre-2015 boats as described SR2 & SR3 (Silicone Rings A & B on v6 boats), then through Deck Eye 2 and lead backwards and The Jib Boom shall be attached to the boat by a line tied around the boom between Boom Bands Version 1.7 of the rules (2021) is available via the following link:Īnd contains the following (I've underlined the relevant phrases): Plus you remain class compliant as you need to rig the boat as per the instructions unless the rules specifically say you don't have to and rule F7.5 says it has to be a clip.
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